My Home - Garage Gable 1



Gable Construction

  1. The 2nd garage roof support (gable) is also constructed of aluminum channel.  It is glued and screwed together.  Having the right tools and figuring out the lengths and angles are the key to construction.

Blueprint to Angles

  1.  My house blueprints describe the roof pitches in rise over run.  This roof is symmetrical and has 5 1/2 inches of rise for 12 inches of length (run).  In miniature construction I needed the angle to cut my supports as well as their lengths.  Cosine of an angle of a right triangle is = adjacent side / hypotenuse.  In my calculations, you can see how I arrived at the angles I needed.  You need a table of sines or cosines.

Angles to lengths

  1.  I measured my house width and divided by two for a new adjacent side.  I then used the tables to get my hypotenuse.  My house width included wall thickness as well as overhang for the roof.

Frame pieces

  1.  The angles were cut on a new water cooled variably speed bandsaw.  Without this tool I could not have cut accurate angles such as 25 degrees.

Frame Approximated

  1.  Both ends have been cut to very close tolerances.

End Attachment

  1.  It is screwed together with angle braces and glued together with a strong epoxy.

Bandsaw cutting angle

  1.  Slow speed and slow cut.

Bandsaw setup

  1.  Corner of my garage

Bandsaw accuracy

  1.  One of my pieces was slightly tool long.  I shaved an intact less than 1/32 in thick piece at a 25 degree angle.  This is amazing.

Metal Epoxy adhesive

  1.  I highly recommend this for metal welding/glueing.

Polyurethane alternative

  1.  These made reasonable joints but were not as strong as the J-B Weld.

Final roof supports

  1.  I added two braces to each gable end which was a piece of 1 x 1/8 aluminum bar stock.  I added longtitudinal braces of 3/8 aluminum channel.  The whole end is now extremely rigid.

Angle Bracing

  1.  This is the best I could come up with besides the epoxy.  25 degree angle.

Angle Bracing

  1.  This is the best I could come up with besides the epoxy.  65 degree angle.

Aluminum Welding

  1.  Aluminum can be welded/brazed if you use a special welding rod and work at it.  You heat up the aluminum (not the solder) with a propane/mapp torch while brushing the surface with a stainless steel brush.  No brushing = no adhesion.

Welded joint

  1.  The two joints when adequate welded form a joint that is stronger than the original aluminum.  That is so.  I could not break the right angle T- joint no matter how hard I twisted.  The center end to end joint is epoxied.

Excess solder

  1.  Mechanically, it was easy for me to leave solder sludge on the aluminum as heating and getting a weld is trick.  This is impossible to remove.

Excess heat

  1.  It is also possible, if you are not too skilled, to melt the aluminum channel.  So I opted to only weld where necessary.  My joints could not be brushed and held in place for soldering but I might use this technique elsewhere in my miniature house.

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